The father of California wines was a flamboyant Hungarian named Agoston Haraszthy, who settled in Sonoma in 1856. He imported 200,000 vines of 1,400 varieties from Europe and proved that fine wine could be made from the vineyards of California.
California, while Mediterranean-like in general, has one of the most unique climate and geographic positions on the globe. Although located far south, on a similar latitude to Spain and North Africa, the vineyards of California are under the influence of ever-shifting topography and a multitude of microclimates. Grape and wine production is an integral part of the vast agricultural mega-industry that spans the length of the state for a thousand miles.
Wines labeled California appellation can be from any of the many wine growing regions of the state (over 90% of U.S. wine is from the state of California). Geographic and soil types are many and varied, but climate is considered the element most responsible for the distinctive California "fruit forward" style. Although California and sunny weather seem to go hand in hand, in truth some of California's best vineyards are downright chilly, cooled by the moderating influences of fog and wind from the Pacific Ocean. Cool mornings and evenings in these vineyards balance hot days under the California sun.
While the variety of territories might indicate a similarly large range of grapes, California's success has been found on relatively few: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. There are additional plantings of other varieties, such as Gew'rztraminer and Riesling, Italian varieties such as Sangiovese and Barbera, and Rhone varieties such as Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache and Viognier.
Napa Valley: The Napa Valley is 60 miles north of San Francisco, 27 miles long and in some parts less than a mile wide. It is considered among California's finest wine appellations, particularly for Cabernet Sauvignon, prompting some to dub it "the Paulliac of California". Napa Valley is far more compact than its neighbor Sonoma, bordered to the south by the shoreline of the San Francisco Bay; to the north, east and west by the redwood-covered Mayacamas Mountains. It is said that the Napa Valley has more different types of soil than all of France, and its microclimates are so varied that it is possible to gain 20F degrees of temperature in the brief trip up valley from Carneros to Calistoga. Napa is blessed with singular geologic and climatic diversity, resulting in extraordinary vineyards. The gift of nature, partnered with state-of-the-art technology and winemaking skill, has consistently propelled Napa Valley wines to the head of the world wine class.
Sonoma is a large and diverse region. Whereas its neighbor, Napa Valley, is small and compact, Sonoma sprawls for miles. Many of the best vineyards are located north of the city of Santa Rosa, and south of the town of Cloverdale. There you'll find a concentration of superb vineyards in the Alexander and Knights Valleys. Varietal diversity rules here, with excellent versions of any number of different California wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot, Sangiovese, Syrah, Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Central Coast: The Central Coast is a vast region, stretching south from Monterey to the quintessential California beach town of Santa Barbara on the Pacific Ocean.
Monterey County is at the northern end of the Central Coast region. It is distinguished by the Salinas Valley. Made famous by the writings of native son John Steinbeck, the Salinas Valley is a thriving agricultural region, recognized for extensive vineyard plantings of the most popular varieties, both red and white. At the northern end, the valley is cooled by the maritime influences of the Pacific Ocean. It becomes downright hot by the time you reach the southern end in Paso Robles. Here, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and red Rhone varietals do well in hillside vineyards which cool down at night.
South-Central Coast. As the California landscape curves southward again towards the Pacific Ocean, the vineyards become positively nippy by Paso Robles standards. Foggy mornings and nights are perfect for Burgundian-style Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande and Santa Maria Valley in San Luis Obispo County. There are also plantings of Riesling and Gew'rztraminer. Some believe the unspoiled Santa Ynez Valley, in northeast Santa Barbara County, is the next great California wine region. Santa Ynez experiences the typical am/pm cooling influences of the Pacific, but can be quite warm and Rhone valley-like during the day. The region holds great promise for Rhone varietals, as well as the classic Burgundian ones.
North Coast: The North Coast region encompasses some of the finest vineyards in the state, running south from Mendocino on the coast, through Lake County and Sonoma, and eastward to the Napa Valley.
The Carneros AVA is shared by both Sonoma and Napa. Carneros dips over rolling hills right down to the San Pablo Bay, (part of the San Francisco Bay). Maritime influences, including cool fog and chilly winds, are at the heart of its microclimate. The fog and breezes filter the intense California sunshine, slowing maturity and lengthening hang time. Soil types are extremely varied in the Carneros; in one Napa vineyard, Winery Lake, seven different types have been identified, including one, Haire, found nowhere else in the world. Carneros produces elegant Chardonnay and stylish Pinot Noir, with some Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot. Grapes from the Carneros are particularly suited to sparkling winemaking as well, as the cool temperature helps impart the higher acidity and bright fruit desired for sparkling California wine.
Mendocino & Lake County, for some, Mendocino means the quaint, artsy village perched on a cliff above the Pacific. But Mendocino County is also wine country. Many of the region's vineyards are tucked among the redwoods, sheltered from the fog and wind of the Pacific by the protective mantle of the Coastal Range Mountains. Sunny enclaves, such as Redwood and Potter Valleys, produce fine Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. On the other hand, the more-exposed Anderson Valley is extremely cool, ideal for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in still and sparkling styles. Well inland from the Pacific Ocean, just about everything from Chardonnay to Zinfandel does well in very warm regions such as Clear Lake and Guenoc Valley in Lake County. Of note, there are vineyards of so-called Old Vine Zinfandel plantings of long ago, sprinkled across the region. There is renewed interest in making wine from these old, historic vines.
The San Francisco Bay area is the centered between the North Coast and Central Coast regions of California. Although generally urban for the most part, tucked into the valleys and up on the mountains are several historic wine-growing regions. The warm Livermore Valley which lies 40 miles east of San Francisco became a wine center in the late 19th century, as the miners returned from the Gold Fields to the San Francisco Bay Area. The first California wines varietally-labeled California Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon came from the region, which was also responsible for important viticultural research and advances in the area of clonal selection. Today, the Livermore Valley is still well-known for excellence in Chardonnay, as well as the Bordeaux varietals Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and Late-Harvest Riesling. Santa Clara County, although today perhaps better known in some circles for technology than wine, evolved as an agricultural and wine growing region about the same time as the Livermore Valley. Although high-tech industry has supplanted much of the agriculture of the valley, vineyards and boutique wineries specializing in the noble varieties can be found around Saratoga and Los Gatos.