BORDEAUX

Bordeaux is one of France's largest and most diverse fine wine regions. A great variety of wines are made here: red, dry white and sweet white. See Full Text Here

BURGUNDY

The roots of Burgundy are the roots of French history. The Grand Duchy of Burgundy covered much of eastern France, and was dotted with castles and monasteries, centers of power, knowledge and wealth. It was early monks who planted the first vineyards, studied variations of soils and terroir, mapped the Cote d'Or and invented the idea of cru.

After the French Revolution, the monasteries were disbanded, and while some aristocrats managed to hold on to their vineyard properties intact, the vineyards of the common people were divided and subdivided over generations of marriage, intermarriage, and inheritance law. Modern Burgundian growers might own several small plots of vines in many different villages; the lots from each vinified and bottled into separate wines. Whereas a Bordeaux producer might sell one or two wines under his estate name, a Burgundy producer might make ten or more different wines. To give it another spin, the 125 acre Grand Cru vineyard Clos de Vougeot had one owner at the time of the Revolution. Today, it has over 80!

Burgundy has five distinct regions: from north to south they are: Chablis, Cote d'Or (divided into the Cote de Nuits in the south and Cotes de Beaune in the north), Cote Chalonaise, Maconnais and Beaujolais. The Cote d'Or has 28 different wine-producing villages or communes, surrounded by a total of 20,000 acres of vineyards. Burgundy is known for many expressions of two great varietals: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In addition, there is fruity, lively Gamay from Beaujolais and lemony-tart Aligoté, planted in lesser vineyard sites. The term Domaine is commonly used in Burgundy to refer to a vine-growing and winemaking estate.

In Burgundy, more so than almost any other wine region except perhaps Alsace and Germany, classification of vineyard land depends upon terroir, and more specifically soil. The entire Cote lies on a bedrock of limestone, as opposed to the gravels and granite of the Médoc. Over the centuries, Burgundian winemakers became convinced that there are quantifiable differences in wine quality from one plot of land to another. Thus, in Burgundy one can find a Grand Cru rated vineyard a few meters from a humble Village. As a general rule, the best sites are considered to be those situated midway on well-drained hillsides, with maximum exposure to heat and light. As you drive north to south along the Route des Grand Crus, look to your right for a view of many of the finest vineyards.

Classifications

• General appellations: Bourgogne Rouge or Blanc; Bourgogne Aligoté.
• Regional appellations: Slightly more specific, will include the wines of the regions that have no higher classifications, e.g. Chablis and Beaune.
• Village Wines: Indicate the best villages along the Cote d'Or which have their own appellations, e.g. Meursault or Volnay.
• Premiers Crus: A step up, indicating the second-best vineyards within a specific village, e.g. Meursault-Clos Richemont (village name + Premier Cru Vineyard name.) These number 25.
• Grand Crus: Thirty-two individual vineyards of particular excellence throughout the Cotes, each with its own AC. The vineyard name by itself is the prominent feature on the label e.g. Batard-Montrachet or La Tache.
• Cremant de Bourgogne is an appellation created in 1975 to replace Bourgogne Mousseux, the name for Sparkling Burgundy. There are about 100 producers of Cremant de Bourgogne. All grape varieties grown in Burgundy are permitted, but Gamay can make up no more than a fifth of the blend. Cremant from southern Burgundy tends to be full and soft in style, and a good alternative to more costly Champagne. Cremant from the north is lighter and crisper in style.

Négociants

In addition to growers who make and bottle their own wines, Burgundy negociants, or wine merchants, buy barrels of wine from growers up and down the Cotes to blend into larger commercial quantities.

Beaujolais: The southernmost portion of the Burgundy region lies near the town of Lyon and in the foothills of the Massif Central as it tapers off into the Saane Valley. Although a small portion of Chardonnay and a bit of Rosé is made, Beaujolais is famed for its Gamay, perfectly suited to the region's granite soils. Beaujolais styles range from the fresh, juicy Beaujolais Nouveau to the bright, creamy Cru Beaujolais, full of peach and cherry fruit.
Classifications

Beaujolais Nouveau: Wine of the new vintage.

Beaujolais and Beaujolais Supérieur: Simple beaujolais from villages in the flatter, sandier south. Supérieur designates slightly more alcohol.

Beaujolais-Villages: From 39 villages with better, more granite soil, mostly in the north.

Cru Beaujolais: From the top ten villages with the best hillside sites.
The Ten Crus Beaujolais (from south to north)

• Brouilly (the largest Cru)
• Cote de Brouilly
• Regnié
• Morgon
• Chiroubles
• Fleurie
• Moulin-a-Vent
• Chénas
• Juliénas
• St-Amour

Chablis: Chablis, one of the most famous white wines in the world, is a tiny collection of hillside vineyards at the extreme northern end of Burgundy. Chablis is made from Chardonnay, and the name has been abused in practice by producers from other parts of the world who labeled any number of types of white wine "Chablis". Traditionally, true Chablis is steely, minerally and bone-dry, due to the climate of the region which is downright cold, and the limestone soils, which, like chalk, encourage acidity in wine. Chablis is now found in one of two styles: stainless steel fermented for a steely, green-apple, crisp wine or barrel-aged (sometimes with malolactic fermentation) for a richer, softer, creamy, vanilla-accented wine.

Classifications

• Chablis: Appellation for more than half of the region's production. Ideally, denotes a fresh, crisp minerally style of wine.
• Premier Crus: There are 40 different Premier Cru vineyard sites, organized under 12 names for simplicity: Beauroy, Cote de Lachet, Fourchaume, Les Fourneaux, Malinots, Montte de Tonnerre, Montmains, Vaucopin, Vaudevey and Vosgros.
• Grand Crus: About 250 acres are shared by seven Grand Cru plots in the hills due north of the town of Chablis. They are: Les Blanchots, Bougros, Les Clos, Les Grenouilles, Les Preuses, Valmur and Vaudésir.

Côte d'Or: The "Golden Slope" has two distinct parts: the Cotes de Nuits and the Cotes de Beaune. The Cotes de Nuits is the northern section, beginning in on the outskirts of Dijon, with the town of Nuits-St-Georges at the center. It is 12 miles long, with 3500 acres of sloping vineyards, planted mostly to Pinot Noir. The best vineyard sites face east or southeast and are a mixture of limestone, clay and marl.

Villages of the Cotes de Nuits:

• Marsannay (rosé)
• Fixin
• Gevrey-Chambertin
• Morey-St-Denis
• Chambolle-Musigny
• Vougeot
• Flagey-Echézeaux
• Vosne-Romanée
• Nuits-St-Georges

The Cotes de Beaune begins where the "Nuits" ends at the hill of Corton. The area is roughly double that of its neighbor, with about 7500 plated acres, and gentler in slope. Most of the wine is Pinot Noir, but this is where you'll also find the classic white Burgundies from Chardonnay that thrives where the limestone breaks through.

Villages of the Cotes de Beaune:

•  Ladoix
• Pernand-Vergelesses
• Aloxe-Corton
• Savigny-les-Beaunes
• Chorey-les-Beaunes\Beaune
• Pommard
• Volnay
• Monthelie
• Auxey-Duresses
• Meursault
• Blagny
• Puligny-Montrachet
• Chassagne-Montrachet
• St-Aubin
• St-Romain
• Santeney
• Maranges

Mâconnais: Proceeding southward, the Mâconnais features a warmer climate and the famed rock of Solutrr, which dominates the landscape overlooking the Chardonnay vineyards of Pouilly-Fuisss. Mâconnais produces the same grapes as the rest of Burgundy: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Aligoté. However, the wines are quite different in style from those of the Cotes d'Or, somewhat less opulent in the case of Pinot Noir, and slightly fatter and riper for Chardonnay. Some believe the origins of the varietal Chardonnay may be found in the Mâconnais village of the same name.

Classifications

• Mâcon: Basic appellation for red wines made from Gamay and white wines from Chardonnay.
• Mâcon Supérieur: Macon with a bit more alcohol.
• Mâcon-Villages: From one or more of the best of 43 villages. Sometimes the name of the village appears hyphenated with the name of Mâcon, as in Mâcon-Lugny.
• St-Veran: Appellation for white wine from eight villages surrounding Pouilly-Fuissé (but not Pouilly-Fuissé!)
• Pouilly-Vinzelles and Pouilly-Loché: From villages Vinzelles and Loché.
• Pouilly-Fuissé: From top producers, the finest white wine of the region.

Hautes-Côtes: Hautes-Cotes, located above the main vineyard strip of the Cotes (Hautes-Cotes de Nuits and Hautes-Cotes de Beaune) is known for perfectly fine, journeyman Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a bit of Aligoté.

Côte Chalonnaise: An area of irregular geography between the Cote d'Or to the north and the Mâconnais and Beaujolais to the south, the Cote Chalonnaise features cooler temperatures and exposures, with many lofty vineyards at 1,000 feet or more. The whites are planted to limestone soils around Montagny and Rully; the reds to the heavy clay of Mercurey and Givrey. Although conditions are more uncertain than the Cote d'Or, wines from good producers can be a great value. Along with the usual suspects Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the Cote Chalonnaise produces some Gamay and Aligoté. The village of Bouzeron is considered to produce the best Aligoté of Burgundy.

Villages of Cote Chalonnaise:

• Bouzeron
• Rully
• Mercurey
• Givry
• Montagny

CHAMPAGNE

All Champagne is sparkling wine. But not all sparkling wine is Champagne. The wine known as Champagne can only come from the region in France of the same name. La Champagne (the region) is located 90 miles northeast of Paris, and in the northernmost wine region in Europe. Of its 84,000 acres, 60,000 (300 individual vineyards) are planted to the varieties that go into Le Champagne (the wine). These include: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. The soil of Champagne is a unique chalk which lies just below the thin, constantly-fertilized top soil. The cool climate is almost marginal for grape growing, even in warmer years, dictating the grapes will always be high in acid--not ideal for still wine--but perfect for sparkling.

Most of the important Champagne houses (producers) are located in the city of Reims, famous for cathedrals as well as Champagne, and the town of Epernay to the south. These houses are famous for their miles of cold, dark, chalky cellars, in which their prized Champagne ages for many years.

Geography & Regulations

There are three primary growing areas within Champagne:

• Montagne de Reims (Pinot Noir)
• Cote des Blancs (Chardonnay)
• Vallée de la Marne (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir & Pinot Meunier)

The region has been strictly regulated since 1942, when the CIVC (Comité Interprofessionel du Vin de Champagne) was formed, making Champagne one of the most thoroughly organized wine regions in the world. Everything from vineyard practices to marketing to vinification methods to maturation is controlled by the CIVC.

Price for fruit is strictly regulated as well. Every year the CIVC and the growers negotiate a price for the vintage. Each of the over 300 vineyards or crus, are given grades from 50% to 100%, and depending upon the grade, the grower receives that percentage of the vintage price.

Wine Styles

Non-Vintage: The mainstay of a house, this is a blend of several vintages to create a uniform house style consumers can count on year after year. Non-vintage Champagne is ready to drink as soon as it is released, but may improve for up to 18 months in the bottle.

Vintage: A Champagne house is free to declare a vintage in those years it feels are best. Vintage Champagne will almost always improve with further bottle aging.

Prestige or tete de cuvée: Considered the luxury bottling, only the very best lots are used in the blend. Examples include Perrier-Jou't Fleur de Champagne, Dom Perignon and Roederer's Cristal.

Rosé: Made by leaving the red skins of the Pinot Noir on the juice for as long as it takes to color it pink, or by blending a small amount of red wine (Pinot Noir, generally from Bugey) into the cuv'e.

Blanc de Blancs: Made only from the Chardonnay grape, mostly light and delicate in style, though richer, fuller examples are sometimes found.

Coteaux Champenois: Still, bone-dry red or white wine of the region.

Cremant: The term used to describe France's finest sparkling wines made outside the Champagne region. (Previously, it indicated slightly less bubby champagnes, with a pressure of three to five atmoshperes, rather than the normal five to six.) The most important Cremant s come from Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgunday, Die, Limoux and Loire.

LOIRE

The river Loire, the longest river in France, flows north through the heart of France, then west where it empties into the Atlantic. For centuries it has provided an avenue for commerce and culture. No wonder, then, that the Loire Valley became a center for political power and wealth, ruled by an educated elite who built chateaux not as a base from which to tend their vineyards as in Bordeaux, but as a demonstration of their influence and prestige.

The Loire boasts a variety of soils and climate, from continental in the east to maritime in the west, and can produce any number of wines. The region is roughly divided into four areas: Pays Nantais, at the mouth of the river and home of Muscadet, Anjou, Touraine and the Central Vineyards. No special classification exists, although the AC system is in full swing--even the smallest areas with a distinctive style have their own appellations.

Varietal Information

Primary white varietals of the Loire:

• Muscadet/Melon
• Sauvignon Blanc
• Gros Plant
• Chenin Blanc
• Chardonnay

Red varietals of the Loire:

• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Cabernet Franc
• Pinot Noir

Regions

Sweet Wines of the Loire:

In the Anjou and Touraine regions, the damp, warm microclimate encourages the formation of the noble rot Botrytis cinerea on the Chenin grapes. The fungus attacks the grapes, dehydrating the fruit and concentrating the sugar, and changing the chemical composition of the remaining juice, as happens in the Bordeaux region of Sauternes to Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion. Most of the botrysized sweet wines from the two tiny districts of Anjou, Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezaux seem almost dry when young due to the high acidity of the Chenin Blanc. Upon aging ten to 20 years, the flavors turn soft and sweet, with great intensity and fresh aromas and flavors of peaches and quince.

Muscadet: The eponymous wine of the region, Muscadet, is neutral in flavor, very dry, yet high in acid. It is also low in alcohol, which makes it the perfect accompaniment to the local oysters and shellfish. The one with the most character is Muscadet de S'vre et Maine. Look for the notation "sur lie" on the bottle, which means the wine has been left on its lees in the tank or barrel, creating flavor and richness.

Vouvray: Vouvray wines must be entirely made from the Chenin Blanc grape, and they are often wonderful, with a honeyed, nutty character. Vouvray is made in an assortment of styles, including demi-sec, moulleux and sparkling.

Anjou: Anjou's vineyards lie to the south, and the region produces standard rosé and very good Chenin Blanc, notably the complex, long-lived Savenniéres and wonderful botrysized sweet wines capable of aging, called Quarts de Chaumes and Bonnezaux, and even a methode-champenoise sparkling wine from Samur.

Touraine: Touraine is to the east, and home of notably earthy, interesting wines made from Cabernet Franc, including Bourgeil and Chinon. In addition, wines are made from Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Central Vineyards: Chenin Blanc gives way to Sauvignon Blanc here, with the paradigm grassy green wines of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Some reds and rosés are also made in Sancerre, from Pinot Noir.

RHôNE

Wines have been made in the Rhône Valley since the time of the Romans, who left behind the ruins of aqueducts and amphitheaters. The Rhône Valley stretches for 140 miles from Lyon to Avignon and is divided into two regions: north and south.

The wines of the north and south are as dramatically different as the climate and the landscape The warm-weather wines of the south tend to be thick, dark, rich blends of as many as nine different red grape varieties. Wines of the southern Rhône also include sweet fortified Muscats from Beaumes-de-Venise, and the burly reds and aromatic whites of the sun-baked vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

In the cooler north, fragrant Viognier of Condrieu and the exotic Marsanne/Roussanne blend of white Hermitage are among the elegant whites. Red Hermitage, made from Syrah, is one of the world's great wines, at one time commanding prices to rival the First Growths of Bordeaux.

Primary red varieties of the Rhône:

• Syrah
• Grenache
• Mourv'dre
• Cinsault

Primary white Varieties of the Rhône:

• Viognier
• Marsanne
• Roussanne
• Clairette

Northern Rhône: Wines of the Northern Rhône

Cote-Rotie ("roasted slope"), one of France's most exciting red wine appellations, lies in the far north of the northern Rhône, well beyond the town of Tain where the major negociants and Hermitage is located. Some believe it is the site of the first vineyard cultivation in ancient Gaul. Vineyards have been carved into the steep hillsides here since the time the Romans settled the nearby town of Vienne. Viticulture is difficult here, with vines planted in schist banked high above the Rhône River to maximize sun exposure.

Hermitage is the northern Rhône's most famous red wine appellation. A small district, Hermitage produces remarkably rich, deeply-colored, aromatic red wines made only from Syrah, and complex white wines blended from Marsanne and Roussane. In the 18th and 19th century, Hermitage wines commanded prices akin to First-Growth Bordeaux.

Hermitage is located on a granitic hill of about 311 acres, with southern exposure, and a number of different soil types divided into various climats within the vineyard. The granite and exposure encourage optimal ripening of the grapes. So closely is the variety Syrah identified with the appellation that in Australia, Hermitage is sometimes used as a synonym for Shiraz (the Australian name for Syrah).

• Condrieu
• Chateau-Grillet
• St-Joseph
• Crozes Hermitag
• Cornas

Southern Rhône: Wines of the Southern Rhône

Cotes du Rhône, the largest appellation in Rhône numbering about 100,000 acres, was granted in 1937. The name, like Bordeaux AC and Beaujolais, has come to be synonymous with French red wine. The vast majority of Cotes du Rhône wine is red, including blends of Syrah, Mourvvdre, Grenache and other permitted varieties, and about 2% white with blends of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussane.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape ("pope's new castle") is the most important quality appellation of southern Rhône, producing mostly spicy, rich red wines, with a small percentage of whites. The name refers to the relocation in the 14th century of the papal court to Avignon in Southern France. The area called Calcernier for its limestone quarry was the site of the Pope's summer quarters, just north of the city now known as Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The appellation is notable in addition because it permits the highest alcoholic percentage (12.5%) and the greatest number of grape varities (13). Grenache is the most important of these and dominates the plantings.

• Gigondas
• Vacqueyras
• Lirac
• Tavel (Rose)
• Clairette de Die

SOUTHERN FRANCE

Southern France encompasses an enormous region, from the Atlantic coast along the Mediterranean to the borders of Italy and Switzerland. Grape vines first arrived in France at the Greek city, Massalia (later Marseilles) in 600 BC. From there, viticulture spread north into the Rhône Valley and east until it reached Bordeaux in the 3rd century BC. Vineyard sites run the gamut, from high in the Pyrennes Orientales and hard against the Spanish border, to the hot, dry plains of Languedoc-Roussillon, to the fields of Provence, to the alps of the Savoie.

Primary red varieties of Southern France:

• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Merlot
• Malbec
• Mourvedre
• Syrah
• Carignan
• Cinsault
• Grenache

White Varieties of Southern France:

• Sauvignon Blanc
• Semillion
• Petit & Gros Manseng
• Muscat
• Clairette
• Mauzac
• Grenache Blanc
• Bourboulenc

The South-West: These are some of most remote vineyards planted to some of the most unusual varities (grapes such as Fer, Manseng Noir, Petit and Gros Manseng and Mauzac!) Tucked-away villages you don't hear about every day include: Iroullguy, Jurannon and Bearn, Madiran and Gaillac. Closer to the Bordeaux side of things, and the Bordeaux style of winemaking, you'll find Buzet, Cahors, Cotes du Marmandais, Cotes de Duras, Bergerac and Monbazillac.

Languedoc-Roussillon: This is the hot part of the south of France, where the influences of the Atlantic are finally overtaken by those of the Mediterranean. Some very good wines are made in the AC regions including Minervois, Corbi'res, Fitou, Roussillon, and Coteaux du Languedoc. Languedoc-Roussillon is also land of vin de pays, simple wines that nonetheless bear the character of their region. The influence of internationally-trained winemakers is seen in the many fruit-forward, new-oaked varietal wines exported from Languedoc-Roussillon, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. Pays d'Oc, the term for vin de pays from Languedoc-Roussillon, has come to represent appealing, well-made wines suited to the tastes of wine consumers around the world.

Roussillon is also notable for the appellations Banyuls and Banyuls Grand Crus, where the finest and most complex of France's vin doux naturels are found. Vins doux naturels is a style of fortified wine similar to Port, in which spirits are added to arrest the fermentation of sugar into alcohol, leaving behind a complex, strong, sweet wine capable of aging.

Provence & Corsica: Good producers striving for quality can be found in these areas which tend to be known more for tourism than fine winemaking. Look for appellations such as Cassis, Bandol, Coteaux-d'Aix-en-Provence, Cotes de Provence and Les Baux-de-Provence. On Corsica, good individual ACs include Patrimonio and Cateaux du Cap Corse.

Jura and Savoie: From the sun and surf of Provence and Corsica, the landscape of Jura and Savoie turns to Alps and lakes. Jura lies to the east, between Burgundy and Switzerland, and is home to some unusual wine styles, including Vin Jaune and Vin de Paille ("straw wine"), a rare, long-lived, sweet wine made from grapes dried on straw mats. The producers of Jura also like to punch up the Burgundian varietals Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with local grapes Trousseau and Poulsard. The vineyards of Savoie cling to the mountainside near Grenoble, and produce delicate whites and reds ranging from light to gutsy.